A TAST OF ITALY, ROOTED IN THE COAST: Chef Chris Lewnes on the Art of Italian Cooking at Fortuna Cucina Italiana

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At Fortuna Cucina Italiana in Wilmington, Chef Chris Lewnes brings a contemporary sensibility to Italian cooking, pairing time-honored techniques with the exceptional seafood and seasonal ingredients of the North Carolina coast. Another brainchild of acclaimed restaurateur Giorgios Bakatsias and his Giorgios Hospitality Group, Fortuna celebrates Italian culinary traditions through a menu grounded in craftsmanship, quality, and simplicity. Handmade pasta takes center stage, from delicate seasonal ravioli to house-made fusilli, alongside thoughtfully reimagined Italian classics and locally sourced seafood. Drawing on his culinary experience and a deep respect for ingredients, Lewnes creates dishes that balance tradition with creativity, allowing each element to speak for itself. In this Q&A, he shares the inspiration behind Fortuna, the art of handmade pasta, and how Wilmington’s coastal bounty continues to shape his approach to Italian cuisine.

Fortuna Cucina Italiana brings a modern perspective to Italian dining in Wilmington. What inspired the concept, and what did you want Fortuna to bring to the local culinary scene?

When Giorgio and I first sat down to discuss opening a restaurant together in Wilmington, we recognized an opportunity to bring a high-quality, ingredient-driven Italian dining experience to the area. We saw room for a concept that respected the traditions of Italian cooking while taking advantage of the exceptional seafood and seasonal ingredients available along the North Carolina coast.

The idea was to combine my culinary background with Giorgio’s vision to create something that felt both authentic and contemporary. We wanted to offer guests a menu rooted in Italian tradition, with an emphasis on craftsmanship, quality ingredients, and thoughtful execution.

Handmade pasta is at the heart of the Fortuna experience. What goes into creating your pasta program, and how do you balance traditional Italian techniques with your own creative approach?

I always come back to the idea that Italian cooking is rooted in simplicity and high-quality ingredients. Our pasta program reflects that philosophy, starting with the foundation: the flour. We source our double-zero flour and semolina from Italy, which gives us the quality and consistency we’re looking for when extruding and sheeting pasta in-house. When my sous-chefs and I develop a new pasta dish, we focus on keeping the components intentional and letting the primary ingredients shine. We respect traditional techniques but aren’t afraid to introduce new flavors or seasonal ingredients. For me, creativity isn’t about adding more to a dish; it’s about understanding how each component works together and knowing when to keep things simple.

Seasonality and locally sourced ingredients play an important role on the menu. How do the changing seasons—and Wilmington’s coastal location—influence the dishes you create?

Seasonality has always played a major role in how I approach menu development. When I was cooking in New York City, I loved making daily trips to the Union Square Greenmarket, watching the seasons change and working with incredible produce from farms across New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. That direct connection to the ingredients was a huge source of inspiration. Moving to Wilmington presented a different challenge. Building relationships with local farmers and finding the quality of produce I wanted required more time and effort than it had up north, but we’ve gradually established a strong network of suppliers and sourced some exceptional products for the restaurant. Seafood is where Wilmington really shines. North Carolina gives us access to outstanding local seafood, and we approach it with the same commitment to seasonality that guides our produce selection. When a particular fish or shellfish isn’t available because of the season, we adapt the menu rather than force an ingredient that isn’t at its best. Ultimately, we want the menu to reflect both the time of year and the place where we’re cooking.

Fortuna has a broad menu that offers something for a variety of tastes, but everything we serve is guided by the same philosophy: respect the classics, use quality ingredients, and make every component count.

Our seasonal ravioli, grilled octopus, and crispy sesame-crusted sourdough focaccia showcase the more creative side of the menu. At the same time, we take just as much pride in our interpretations of Italian and Italian-American classics, including Fusilli Genovese, veal Parmesan, meatballs, stuffed shells al forno, and bucatini all gricia. Our flounder Francese also reflects the way we incorporate local ingredients into familiar preparations. Every ingredient has a purpose, and every technique is intentional. We’re not interested in adding components simply to make a dish look more elaborate. Whether it’s a traditional pasta or a seasonal special, the goal is to create something balanced, thoughtful, and delicious.

October is National Italian Month, making it the perfect time to celebrate Italian cuisine. How is Fortuna Cucina embracing the season this fall?

At Fortuna, every month is pasta month. Handmade pastae do, and our primi menu offers a variety of house-made selections throughout the year. We also enjoy pushing our creativity with rotating specials, especially as the seasons change.

This fall, we’ve had great success with dishes like lasagna bianca, rigatoni with veal Bolognese and Parmesan fondue, and house-made tagliatelle finished with freshly shaved seasonal truffles. These dishes allow us to highlight the richness and comfort associated with fall while staying true to our Italian roots.

We approach seasonal cooking as an opportunity to keep the menu evolving. Guests can expect familiar Italian foundations, thoughtful seasonal ingredients, and new pasta dishes that give them a reason to return and discover what’s next.

For someone visiting Fortuna for the first time, what would you recommend for the ultimate Fortuna experience?

When I sit down for a meal at Fortuna, I usually start with a Negroni and our crispy sourdough focaccia. The focaccia is nonnegotiable.

From there, I’d order one of our crudos for something light, bright, and refreshing, followed by a salad. The Caesar is always popular, but our tricolor salad is another favorite of mine. I’d round out the antipasti with our meatballs or grilled octopus.

For pasta, I like to order one or two dishes to share. The Fusilli Genovese is a great choice, and our honey nut squash ravioli is especially appealing in the fall, with its balance of sweet and savory flavors.

For the main course, my favorites are the brick chicken and flounder Francese. The chicken is our take on chicken scarpariello, with all the bold, savory flavors I love in that dish. The flounder is a more straightforward expression of great ingredients: locally sourced fish, egg-washed and cooked until golden, served with spinach and a beautiful lemon-butter sauce. I’d pair the meal with a glass of Verdicchio.

For dessert, our pastry chef, Mattie, has put together some wonderful fall offerings, including a sweet potato cheesecake that’s become a favorite of mine. But I’m also a traditionalist when it comes to tiramisu, and that’s a must-order every time.

If I were introducing someone to Fortuna, that’s how I’d want them to experience it: a little bit of everything, shared around the table, with great pasta, thoughtful cooking, and a few Italian classics along the way.